It’s unforgivable, I know, but I still get Dumbarton and Dunfermline mixed up. The former is the west coast mecca of real ale that Tandleman writes about, the latter the only thing between you and the east coast joys of Glenrothes, of which more too soon.
Anyway, I started at Edinburgh Waverley, where I failed to find the new Spoons but did enjoy the challenge of upgrading my Scotrail ticket so I could stop off in Dunfermline on the way to Kirkcaldy. By going to Glenrothes. It turned out to be 50p badly spent.
I’m leaving Edinburgh to Mrs RM to blog about the capital, though.
So Dunfermline. A solid, stately town, attractive in parts, particularly on the walk through comely Comely Park and towards the Abbey.
The Spoons is particularly impressive, even if it lacks a mobility scooter outside.
That’s outside the Café Nero, but then Café Nero are the most authentic modern coffee chain.
It’s quite a hilly town, with lots of rows and closes to get lost in.
At the end of one, I came across the tragic news that I’d just missed Bobby Davro playing Beauty in “Beauty and the Beast“. Not to mention the Bay City Rollers. They really do get cutting-edge entertainment at the Alhambra.
Anyway, thank goodness for Stonegate and their 11am openers.
The East Port Bar was ready to greet me on the dot of 11am with its “range of beers, typically from Born in the Borders Brewery, Orkney and Timothy Taylor”
I know I bang on about sticking to proper beer, but why (oh why) do Scots drink English beer when they’ve got such good ale themselves. Take back control, Scotland.
The East Port is a typical open town pub with three other Professional Drinkers at 11am, a fine welcome, and decent (NBSS 3) Landlord at £3 a pint. Can’t argue with that.
An air of melancholy was in the air. Whether that was due to Sky TV’s Premiership coverage or a rare playing of this Echo & the Bunnymen classic, I couldn’t say.
But the mood brightened as the Landlord’s long-lost son turned up, unexpectedly, to give his mum an Easter hug. When I say long-lost, I mean he was at University in Dundee, which is much the same thing. A touching moment, a nice pub.
So was the Commercial, a more traditional boozer, but one that was mopping up the early lunch trade. If I have to compare it to an English pub, then this is the Scottish equivalent of Lutterworth’s Unicorn; an attractive down-to-earth town boozer with unexpected cheap food trade.
A symphony in brown, the nicotine-drenched walls covered in history. Yet another Scottish winner in a week full of them.
A more exciting beer range, with something strong from Loch Leven proving a good but inadvisable lunchtime choice.
The chilli and plaice & chips bargain lunches brought in the jumper brigade, giving the place a warmer character than it might have had if just catering to boozers.
On the down side, they were playing “Fix You” by C******Y, which apparently isn’t yet a criminal offence under devolved laws,