I’d had Barmouth recommended to me by a Welshman, though to be honest the dominant accent there is Black Country, with faggots and Eccles cakes being sold by blokes in Wolves shirts to Baggies fans. In the sun, mind.
Away from the funfair, I thought it was a pretty wonderful seaside resort, with just enough character to go with the tat. Quirky shops and independent shops gave it a busy feel as far from St Ives or Southwold as you could wish for. Better fish & chips too.
The views over the estuary from the railway bridge were as good as my brochure (Visit Wales in ’94), but the steep walks up the Old Town to Dinas Oleu were my highlight. Luckily for some of our party the ice cream shop was at the bottom.
Over the bridge in Morfa Mawddach was the most peaceful countryside possible, reminiscent of Arnside and Silverdale. Few day-trippers made it this far, but I can see why you’d pop along the A483 to walk here rather than suffer the M6 to the Lakes.
All Barmouth needed was a good pub, and The Royal appealed even as the train pulled in. I would call it “pleasantly unmodernised“, which you can take as you wish. Another of those very basic hotel-pubs the Welsh do so well, but with some very attractive wood panelling to complement a family holiday feel.
Comparisons with the Kings Arms in Penryn sprang to mind, but this place would have been very much at home in Stockport. Rev James and Purple Moose (NBSS 3) in decent form for a lager pub.
Plenty of other pubs in town, including the intriguing looking (but early-closing) Myrddins, whose extraordinary sounding beer menu apparently comes in bottles.
retiredmartin 
I know, or rather have visited on a trip home, the Kings Arms in Penryn. The latter was one of those pubs where I had to explain my Cornish roots before anyone would be civil. Would it be fair to suggest that was the reaction you had from our Celtic cousins ?
The main difference is surely that Barmouth is a tourist destination, whereas only the curious would include Penryn on their itinerary when visiting the Promised Land.
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You’d be right to think it had a similar “lively” atmosphere Malcolm, though I had a good welcome in the Kings Arms (my sister is local) and I find Welsh pubs universally friendly . Most English tourists used to Wetherspoons or Hungry Horses would be a bit shocked though !
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A road numbering pedant writes:
It’s the A496 that will take you to Barmouth. The A483 is many miles to the east through Welshpool and Newtown.
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Correct as well.
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I once spent a couple of days on a film set in Barmouth ( Happy Days,a forgettable British flick) out of season and it had a real other-worldly,end-of-the-line eeriness.
Fabulous beach.Peculiar locals.A bit like Royston Vasey.
I quite liked Barmouth but there was definitely something odd about the place.
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Good description, end of the line.
Was overwhelmed by coachloads of West Midlanders on my day there mind you.
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