I’ll be honest and say that quite a few of the Beer Guide entries for North Wales are both unpronounceable and hard for me to pinpoint on a map. Llanrwst Yes, Llanfair Ffestiniog No. I’ll bet the Good Beer Guide has got the multiple Talybonts mixed up over the years.

We had to pass through Llanfair on our way Zipwire Titan, a series of 70mph rides through the old slate mines at better known Blaenau Ffestiniog, part of a huge investment in “adventure tourism”.  Blaenau itself looked a little becalmed in comparison.

I’ll spare you the details, but Mrs RM got stuck halfway down the first slide and had to be rescued by the handsome young well trained staff, possibly carrying a box of Milk Tray.

What Mrs RM really likes is decent beer, and that came in grey Llanfair‘s rambling village pub, where we just squeezed in before the wedding reception took it over.

Despite lots of friendly signs, the Pengwern Arms hardly looks like a pub, let alone a hotel, and the tangle of frontages will no doubt cause Simon much hilarity.

My son found the entrance I failed to

A good pattern was emerging in North-West Wales.  Cheerful Welsh-speaking folk, lots of them seated at unmodernised bars leaving decent real ale to the strange English beer tourists.  And decent rolls (Exhibit A – proper beef salad below), presumably nicked from the wedding reception.

Proper pub tables

QUIZ TIME – What’s on the beer mat ?

I like these village pubs a lot, and the beer here was very decent (NBSS 3).  This is what it was, helpfully in English as well.

IMG_20160806_130807.jpgLlanfair itself was as bucolic a setting as you could wish for,  perfect as a base for waterfall and sheep spotting. I settled for the sheep.



  1. Interesting question – why, in many tourist areas, is it common for locals to drink lager/cider/smooth and leave the real ale to the grockles?


  2. With my poor eyesight, the obvious answer for the beermat would appear to be a butterfly, so I shall go moth.

    I am pleased to see the Welsh written first on the chalkboard. Just a shame the English is there, it would be far more fun trying to work it out otherwise.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s