We arrived in Dumfries after a lunch of pastries and painstakingly looked for somewhere to park our campervan for zero pounds, which isn’t a big budget.


Luckily the council free car park along the old dock had a space just big enough, and no height barrier to smash into.  Result.

Dumfries has been high on my list since England were last good (Nov ’97), with a complement of six (6) Beer Guide entries, which makes it the most desirable town in the GBG.

And we’d probably see something else besides pubs. But probably not Burns House. Is there anywhere in Scotland without a Burns House. Was he the BRAPA of his age ?

The walk along the River Nith is as exciting as the walk along the Ouse in Bedford, a decent comparison that will upset both towns equally.

Oh look, a pub. With people outside.  And Burns painted on the chimney (or is it soot ?).

Look closely

That looks OK” said Mrs RM.  “Is it in your silly book ?” It was.

Never mind the book. Look at the sign on the door.


Hopes are often raised by Bass mirrors and Bass livery, but here in the Coach & Horses it was real.

Not really your traditional Bass boozer either, with the bar looking the sort of Bristol student place that puts on far too many beers and has cats on all the chairs.  Quirky, but homely.


No students drinking the Bass, of course.  Their time of enlightenment will come, as surely as they switch from dub step to Dylan.


It’s a lovely, cluttered bar, with a single simple Bass pump.  The Landlord told me he’d had it on for decades, which makes the fact WhatPub shows Belhaven 80/ a little odd.


LifeAfterFootball would have loved it.  Old folk mixed with young, a soundtrack of The Jam and The Beat competed with Belgium v Tunisia, (“those Belgians flatter to deceive“)and cheese crisps were consumed in vast quantities (lunch).  The Landlord was as enthusiastic about his cheese (only) crisps as his Bass, always a good sign.

Tension rises

And Mrs RM thought the cool, rich Bass was as good as I did (NBSS 3.5).  Last month Pedigree, now Bass, can I convert her to BBB ?




  1. “Was he the BRAPA of his age ?”

    I think he was just a savvy real estate investor. 😉


    Definitely a bit cluttered.

    “as they switch from dub step to Dylan.”

    I spy Green Onions by Booker T. and the M. G.s. Love that song. 🙂


    About 10 years ago I would’ve agreed; but for the Guinness seen in the photo. Luckily my time of enlightenment is fast approaching. 🙂

    “can I convert her to BBB ?”

    Let’s not get carried away. 🙂



  2. Last time I was up there (20 + years ago) I spent all evening in the Dumfries & Galloway Royal Infirmary. Fair play to the eye surgeon who left his dinner party, resplendent in full evening wear inc. kilt, to attend to me. Although it”s a lovely part of the world, with stunning scenery, lovely people and some nice pubs, it was quite clear to me why everyone took a nip with their beer, which was uninspiring, poorly kept and mostly fizzy keg stuff – When did it change?


  3. You’re right. I do absolutely love it!!! CAMRA jigsaw beermats, The Jam and Booker T on the wall as well as The Beat (Birmingham’s best band?) in the background. Always partial to a bit of well kept Bass too! Lovely stuff

    Liked by 2 people

  4. Had a superb pint of Bass in the Tynemouth Lodge Hotel pub in Tynemouth of all places 🙂 this week. I’m sure you will have visited it.

    Apparently it’s always on and as I left I complimented the Landlord on it and he said it should be that’s what I drink.

    We need more Landlords like him.

    Liked by 2 people

  5. But “people outside” might mean it’s an absolute shit hole inside.
    A mobility scooter AND a pram outside the Warwick Wetherspoons yesterday morning confirmed that Tim’s high street ‘barns’ still attract all ages.

    Liked by 2 people

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