The pursuit of GBG completion rather hampered our best laid plans to do the touristy bits of the Peak District that Mrs RM tells everyone we moved to Sheffield for two years ago (don’t tell Mrs RM, it was actually the suburbs of Rotherham that attracted me).

The Guide is ticked, the CAMRA pub walk book bought from Sheffield Waterstones,

and a week after Ladybower we took the 40 minute rail journey to Hope.

28th October 2022.

It was starting to get dark by 5, we arrived in Hope at 1, but still decided to stop for lunch at the Old Hall before our ascent.

By astonishing good fortune the Old Hall is new in GBG23, so IF (in an OJ Simpson way) I DO the Guide again, that’s one less.

What a pleasant allrounder it is; cafe on the side, unfussy dining area, bench seating,

clock that goes backwards, beers you may have heard of.

A few too many beers, if honest, particularly when the first four pints you see pulled are all Moretti (blokes in their 30s back from the hill), but the Theakston is cool and distinctive. Probably a 3 rather than a 3.5, but GBG standard.

Mrs RM has the Dizzy Blonde (3+), of course. I’m saying nowt.

The pumpkin soup is homemade and gorgeous. For about a tenner soup and a pint is a perfect lunch.

Dads and lads come in for half-term post-walk snacking (“Right lads, crisp fest !“). It’s a model Peak pub.

By now it’s 2pm and Mrs RM can put off the walk no longer, except by standing to look at signs.

We walk for a couple of hours, all uphill,

before getting a bit scared. Not by aggressive cows, but whoops of laughter coming from the life coach down the hill.

Mrs RM is convinced we’re lost and directs me down a track between Hope and Castleton. It’s best to quit when you’re ahead.

We’d walked off about 37 calories, so felt entitled to add them back with flat white and flapjack at the Grasshopper Cafe, which also stocks some rather good train beers.

As soon as weather conditions allow, we’ll be back to walk to Kinder Scout. As long as there’s a craft cafe on the top.


  1. What! You haven’t already ticked the craft cafe on Kinder Scout?

    The only reason it’s not in the Good Beer Guide is that no one has found it yet.


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