Next stop on Tuesday, Aberdaron, a place that had stared mournfully out at me from Page 606 of the Beer Guide as one of the most isolated entries. OK, it takes longer to get to Kettering via the A14 these days, but you know what I mean.

Closing in on Gwynedd
Barring a “Bar” on Bardsey Island

Parked up in the National Trust car park for an hour (I really should have taken Life Membership), it was time for OS Explorer 253.

Hotel on the beach

Frankly the map is unnecessary; you can explore the village and graveyard in five minutes, down a half in seven, queue for an ice cream for ten, and spend the rest of the hour climbing the cliffs either side of the pub.

The Shop
The graveyard and pub
The beach and flowers
Spot Mrs RM in the campervan eating ice cream
The view – spot our campervan

Tipping up at a secluded fishing village like this in the May sunshine is one of the greatest things in the world.  Those Welsh are a blessed nation. In Cornwall  a place like this would be overrun; here it’s busy enough to ensure the ancient ice cream shop and two pubs are open, which is all you want, really.

Rhubarb crumble

Mrs RM sat in the campervan enjoying rhubarb crumble ice cream and Bowland cheese while sorting out her next exciting IT assignment.

I did the tick at Ty Newydd, a smart and unpretentious beachfront hotel covered in scaffolding but with views like this out on the balcony.


They were just about to welcome hordes of Old Colonels from Porthmadog for their lobster lunches, so I nipped ahead for a perfectly poured half.

Local Llyn

Those Cwrw Llyn beers popped up a lot on our last trip out here, and were served at a cool and tasty NBSS 3 here.

Expert beer perching

Quite a good view” I said to the Old Colonel, guardedly.

Harumph” he replied.


Perhaps the best pub on a beach in the Beer Guide ?  Wait and see.



  1. Genuine question here – do you think the reason why Wales remains such a mystery to many English people is because of a perceived unfriendliness towards them by the locals ?
    I remember a few years back having a natter with an ardent English rugby fan but by no means your typical blinkered Little Englander who said he always overnighted for a good session in Scotland and Ireland when following the team but never,ever stayed in Cardiff because it was so unfriendly.
    My experiences of Wales have always been on the drive to catch the ferry to Ireland – Pembrokeshire in particular is stunning with some good pubs and sound people but basically empty even in the height of summer.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Genuinely, yes. There’s a lot more anti-Welsh sentiment than anti-Scottish, but I’ve never had a bad experience in Wales (barring Cardiff fans after Cambridge United won 7-2 there in 1994).

      I suspect resentment more about second home owners than English as such, and the grumpy farmers in Caernarfon was really railing against freeloaders like me who park their campervans for free rather than giving farmers £20 to park on their grass.


  2. The Old Kings Arms Hotel in Pembroke has been a regular stop of ours for years.
    Huge lunches and a few pints before a grand snooze on the four-hour ferry journey.

    Liked by 1 person

      1. With your liking of big breweries, Wolverhampton et al, I read that as Double Diamond and Olde Empire.
        How widely available is DD these days ? A few residential hotels still seem to have it.
        A few professional drinkers saw off a firkin of Olde Empire in a morning in a local ‘Spoons branch last week. Not sure that the manager appreciated that 5.7 per cent at £1.99 might be attractive to some at 9,00am !

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Double Diamond is a bit craft for me; think Olde Cottage in Burton did a version of it recently but never seen it myself. Olde Empire has a loyal following among Professional Drinkers !


  3. “Spot Mrs RM in the campervan eating ice cream”

    She’s just to the right of that little gray shed on the far left isn’t she?

    “but with views like this out on the balcony.”

    Not bad. ☺️

    “Expert beer perching”

    Pfft. The bottom bit is cut off. You’re probably holding it out of sight. 😉

    ““Harumph” he replied.”

    Maybe he was referring to the lobster? 😎



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