Next stop on Tuesday, Aberdaron, a place that had stared mournfully out at me from Page 606 of the Beer Guide as one of the most isolated entries. OK, it takes longer to get to Kettering via the A14 these days, but you know what I mean.
Parked up in the National Trust car park for an hour (I really should have taken Life Membership), it was time for OS Explorer 253.
Frankly the map is unnecessary; you can explore the village and graveyard in five minutes, down a half in seven, queue for an ice cream for ten, and spend the rest of the hour climbing the cliffs either side of the pub.
Tipping up at a secluded fishing village like this in the May sunshine is one of the greatest things in the world. Those Welsh are a blessed nation. In Cornwall a place like this would be overrun; here it’s busy enough to ensure the ancient ice cream shop and two pubs are open, which is all you want, really.
Mrs RM sat in the campervan enjoying rhubarb crumble ice cream and Bowland cheese while sorting out her next exciting IT assignment.
I did the tick at Ty Newydd, a smart and unpretentious beachfront hotel covered in scaffolding but with views like this out on the balcony.
They were just about to welcome hordes of Old Colonels from Porthmadog for their lobster lunches, so I nipped ahead for a perfectly poured half.
Those Cwrw Llyn beers popped up a lot on our last trip out here, and were served at a cool and tasty NBSS 3 here.
“Quite a good view” I said to the Old Colonel, guardedly.
“Harumph” he replied.
Perhaps the best pub on a beach in the Beer Guide ? Wait and see.