Scandinavia Day 3, and a half hour train journey to Roskilde, days after their eponymous festival ended (though the Foo Fighters are probably still trying to finish “Best of You” there, too). It’s a sort of Glasto without the middle classes,but with Vikings and sleigh rides.
I’ve marked Roskilde’s biggest draw on the map, alongside Copenhagen’s own tourist highlights.
It’s an attractive, if not stunning town, dominated by the Cathedral housing the remains of Denmark’s Kings and Queens, and a Tourist Office where you can get free coffee, thereby saving yourself a fiver straight off.
The Cathedral is a bit austere and worthy, the odd carving apart.
But the walk down to the Viking ships through Bypark was a treat, except for Mrs RM, who had blisters on the soles of her feet, to quote the song.
In the depths of my historical ignorance I was expecting something closer to Vasa in Stockholm (see here), rather than this barebones reconstruction, however painstaking.
Rather more exciting was the Viking game of “throw a brick on a rope at some wood” which my son James demonstrates in the video below.
Fuelled by stracciatella, we walked to Ragnarock, a new museum of Danish youth culture which sounds like some of our own more misplaced Millennium cultural vebtures (think Sheffield’s Centre for Popular Music). Designating areas for “Skateboarding“, “Music making” and “Teenage Fun” is a surefire way to dissuade those activities.
A glorious bit of architecture though, clearly via Walsall and the Bull Ring.
And plenty of visitors from schools, though clearly the main appeal of the Youth Culture Centre is to old folk reliving their Copenhagen musical memories.
If you’ve ever wondered what was in the Danish Top 20 in 1973, wonder no more;
In 1983, when I was listening to Limahl and the first R.E.M. album, Denmark had a rather different musical highlight.
The section on Whigfield is embarrassingly small. Mrs RM and I only visited Denmark in 1998 to pay homage to visit her Skælskør home.
I had to drag Mrs RM out before she started her own version of “Saturday Night“, so she missed out on the Liquorice & Kale Ale too.
Back in Copenhagen, the post-luxury ice cream comedown was in full effect, and we popped in to Kalaset, just north of the Mikkeller Bottle Shop (just north of Norreport if you’ve no idea who Mikkeller are). Norreport is Copenhagen’s Oxford Street, I guess, but you’d struggle to get a café as homely as Kalaset in W1.
The Pederstrup Golden Pilsener (£7, 50cl) was a decent accompaniment to my quinoa salad (rather better than Spoons). Musically, we’d reached 1986, Janet Jackson’s “Nasty” following “Peek a Boo” by Siouxsie in a café bar straight out of Oldham Street.
The highlight of the indoor market wasn’t the bottles of “Peter, Pale and Mary”, but the fish counter, which may gives you nightmares. And make you glad you passed on the Crunchy Turd ale.
The view from the Netto boats at Nyhaven (a bargain at a fiver for an hour long trip) were rather more cuddly.
Next up: The craft. And Pubmeister.