retiredmartin

March 2026. The Belgisches Viertel. Cologne.

Our last day in Cologne, a day carrying our luggage around, but that’s OK because I follow Mrs RM’s packing guidance.

I should stop promoting her blog; she’s getting a thousand view a day which is the same as me without the North Bergen data farms.

Despite staying yards from Braurei Paffgen we never did get a return visit, so a good excuse to come back and do more of the Ruhr soon.

We planned our day over cake and coffee in Bäckerei Heinemann, which has an unhealthy obssession with carrot based products but was otherwise superb.

You’re right on the edge of the affluent Belgian Quarter a mile west of the cathedral, an area rated as “a highlight” in our Marco Polo guide.

But it isn’t that exciting, more a pleasant neighbourhood with imposing church,

and occasional art interludes.

A lot of bars,

including quite a few smaller outlets for the large Kolsch brauhauser.

An interesting model; the centrepiece Braurei with huge dining area in the centre (Sion, Peters, Fruh, Gaffel), smaller outlets in the suburbs.

Is there a UK equivalent of that ? I can’t think of it. Bury St Edmunds doesn’t have a Greene King beer hall; I guess the modern Manchester breweries (Track for one) have a solid food trade but tthen they don’t have local pubs. Hall & Woodhouse, perhaps ?

The walk back towards the Dom is like a stroll along Manchester’s Portland Street, a string of brewery art.

And beyond the Hahnen Gate (doing a poor job defending the city),

your Reissdorf and Peters locals.

Are they on any blogs ? Do they serve guest craft beers ? One day I will find out.