HALF A DOZEN PUBS IN EVERY GBG COUNTY. No. 9 – DEVON.

A special treat, with your first five from all corners of Devon.

In truth, I could have picked all five from Plymouth, which is really a suburb of Bristol, isn’t it ?

But I start in the M5 corridor with the Properest of Proper Pub.

Cullompton – Pony & Trap (last visited in 2022)

Blimey, it’s an uncomplicated pub, where the last 30 years haven’t happened. Just sit on the bench, sup your Bass, and take it in.

The pub is better than the beer (which is good enough).  It’s immaculate, and starts to become cosy as a few old boys come in at 12.30. You may think it only takes a Bass mirror to gain my favour, but actually it was the outside toilet and meat raffle that swung it.”

Plymouth – Dolphin (last visited 2019)

Well, I would, wouldn’t I ?

Timeless Bass boozing in the Barbican. And a high quality busker treating us to “Sara” by Dylan, a real toe-stomper (top).

Great seating, cheery staff, a sense of joy.

But if you asked me again tomorrow, I might have picked the Artillery Arms instead.

No, I wouldn’t.

The real surprise for me when completing the Guide with an all-out assault on the West Country was just how un-pubby the GBG entries were, some not opening if the chef didn’t turn up.

I had the next one down as gastro hell before I entered.

Dartmouth – Cherub (last visited 2022)

Like those beamed pubs in York’s Shambles, you wouldn’t necessarily expect to see the Cherub in the Guide. Never trust a pub with lots of words on the wall, I thought.

But I couldn’t have been more wrong.

I wrote “You’re greeted by the theme from “Ghostbusters”, a bloke in a Hawaii shirt humming badly, a tourist asking where the “tip box is”, and a couple of red nosed posh Old Boys debating Newton’s Theory of Light (“Newton was wrong“) and recounting adventures ending in them knocking themselves out.

I’ve never been in a pub with a higher ration of drunks. Well, not since the Brunning & Price in Hook, anyway.

Sticklepath – Devonshire Inn (last visited in 2022)

The remote one, the one that never changes over decades, the one you’re a bit nervous about going in.

It looked deserted, and even after ringing a bell (gingerly) it took ages for the landlady to emerge from the back room. At 5pm on a Saturday.

Over a half of Rich’s cider from the barrel (£1.60) and ginger beer (also £1.60) we talked Marks & Spencer, the merits of Launceston, local bus services, Norwegian Salmon fishing, and, you know, LIFE.

Check it’s still there before visiting. I’m not sure how you check, but do.

Another characterful landlady to round off our five;

Appledore – Champion (last visited 2020).

North Devon feels a world apart, and that campervanning trip of 2020 with lockdown temporarily and tentatively eased was a great one.

I nearly wasn’t allowed in the Champ, full to Covid capacity.

One London couple came to the door and were told “No space at the Inn, my darlings“, but they were no Mary and Joseph.”

Didn’t like the look of them anyway” said someone, a little too loudly.

I took the last seat indoors, next to a couple of blokes singing along to “You’re So Vain” .

One of the great nights, even with the handwash.

Right, over to you for a 6th. Votes for Tim Martin’s local in Exeter WILL be accepted.

11 thoughts on “HALF A DOZEN PUBS IN EVERY GBG COUNTY. No. 9 – DEVON.

  1. I’d have liked hearing the “Sara” and “You’re so vain” but have missed any proper singing with only thirteen nights in Devon, very few compared to 38 in Cornwall, 36 in Dorset and 21 in Somerset. .

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  2. I spend quite a while planning my trips away but my two failings in recent years have been missing the Dolphin during my brief time in Plymouth four years ago and missing the Batemans pub in York six months ago.

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  3. Nothing from Exeter which is fair enough; for such an interesting city the paucity of decent pubs is surprising.
    I’ve often found the Poacher at Ide a decent stop-off.

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