Away from the Bolkerstraße

1st November 2022.

I first came to Dusseldorf in 2015 with James, straight after his “O” levels. We enjoyed it so much we stopped a second time a day a later for ice cream and Uerige (be patient, be patient).

I thought that Joan and Dave would like the city, even though it’s not as picture postcard perfect as Bamberg or Nuremberg.

They loved it.

Despite an urban population of over a million the centre is pretty compact, centred on the Bolkerstraße and the Rhine.

Some of these pubs look awfully familiar to anyone who bought Steve Thomas’s Good Beer Guide to Germany, particularly Zum Schlüssel.

Amazingly, that book is the best part of 20 years old, but it always seemed good enough till I got bored with carrying around 3 tonnes of brewery listings (see also : GBG) and chucked it during Covid. I’ve just ordered another one for a fiver.

We walked the length of the Bolkerstraße, resisting the charms of all but Uerige at the end, and noted how most of the trade was local gentlefolk, rather than rabid Australians or Americans after tasters.

We were easily distracted by the timeless architecture.

Clocks everywhere,

those this was a bit awry.

Naturally, the sun was shining on the righteous (Dave and Joan in this case), and temperatures weren’t far off what you’d hope for early summer.

And so Dusseldorf in early November was heaving, the queue for currywurst and ice creams as long as I remember 7 years ago.

But amongst the hot dogs and fun fairs you could find serenity.

But enough of that, time for Uerige.

See also : Boak & Bailey’s recent post.

4 thoughts on “Away from the Bolkerstraße

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