Another update from The Road to GBG Completion, this one from the Hebrides Hotel in Tarbert where we’re getting our money’s worth (£16 a fish finger sandwich) by hogging a table and the WiFi.
We awoke early on Saturday morning in Mallaig, hoping the ferry to the Uists had turned up.
It hadn’t; just a pleasure steamer, but an hour later we were boarding the CalMac to perhaps the most treasured pub tick of the year.
I’ve mentioned the Westford Inn at North Uist’s Claddach Kirkibost several times as I count down to the end of a 30 year quest.
The Westford is SO remote that legendary completist Duncan actually invented the submarine in order to visit it in 1576. And people think it was Da Vinci.
Actually, it’s not THAT remote, just one 3.5 hour ferry to South Uist and then an hour’s drive to the North. But look at the OS extract;
Every minute of that hour’s drive I was worrying it would be closed; for winter (it’s nearly the end of August, after all), for attending a CAMRA awards ceremony, for C***d.
And then, 10 minutes short of the target, we were brought to an abrupt halt;
Baa Baa growled at them, they took the hint and walked round us.
I asked Mrs RM to take a photo of the famous sign;
noting how it’s spelt completely differently to the map and the GBG.
At the Westford, the car park was deserted,
“but the door’s open ! Run !“ said Mrs RM.
A fuller report to follow, probably in November, but for now I’ll just say the Westford is everything you could want from a pub. Wonderful welcome, great cask (mostly enjoyed by Mrs “most Scottish beer is rubbish” RM), real fire.
Four down, eighteen (18) to go.
And no, I’m not doing them all on this trip.
retiredmartin 
I’m glad you liked the Westford. When I was there a few years ago the beer wasn’t very good and the atmosphere was totally lacking. Must be just me…
LikeLike
No, it’s just me, Will. Possibly helped that Simon Urry (recent CAMRA Highlands chair) had told them I was coming and we had something to chat about for half an hour.
Mrs RM said the beer was good and she knows beer (except sours).
LikeLike
Yes, being able to chat about your fanatstic journey nearing its conclusion would certainly have been an ice-breaker.
Actually, on looking again at my review on Pubs Galore, my pint of Skye Red here in 2019 was in good condition, but it’s just a beer I’m not really into. That Skye Black in your photo, on the other hand, would have been just the thing.
LikeLike
Actually we seemed more interested in the football scores coming in on the vidiprinter than the GBG!
LikeLike
Yes I can see how Skye Red would divide opinion, and how the Westford might feel a little bare. Having their coal fire on helped !
LikeLiked by 1 person
You tease us here, surely this trip is going to cover everything so you don’t risk sight of the next GBG until you’ve completed the current one…..
LikeLike
Actually, think how traumatic it would be if CAMRA dropped (ugh) the next GBG on 1 September.
LikeLiked by 2 people
The possibility of another strike by Royal Mail employees would definitely work in your favour, then?
LikeLiked by 2 people
That won’t be an issue if the ferry runs, Paul !
LikeLike
2 month strike by Scottish ferrymen…..
LikeLike
Learn to swim, young man. Learn to swim.
LikeLike
Well done Baa Baa!
When I was there in the 80’s there was discussion of bilingual road signs, but consensus seemed to be that adding English was unnecessary as the tourists all had maps.
LikeLiked by 1 person
18! My heart’s beating faster just reading this. Glad that this one at least was a lovely pub. Can’t help thinking at this stage you were well past having expectations for any of these places and just were grateful to find them open and capable of pouring a pint.
Have you been phoning ahead to every pub, double and triple checking that their doors will be open?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Mrs RM has been phoning twice !
LikeLike