The Great Western Tickathon continued after breakfast at the Seven Stars as we left the outskirts of Builth for the great forests beyond Beulah.

The trail through Nant Irfon consists of a drovers track though logging works, with steep drops on either side and suicidal sheep blocking your ascent.

It’s not a place you want to meet a lorry or motorhome, and remarkably we drove for nearly an hour without passing a single other vehicle, till we arrived at the famous “Remote Phone Box & Post Box” at Nantymaen, where it suddenly resembles Matlock Bath on Bank Holiday Monday.

The half hour it takes to do the 5 miles down to Tregaron involve at least 17 sharp stops, reversals into passing spots and intakes of breath.

So we’re glad to arrive in tiny Tregaron (pop. 1,213) for coffee, colour, and a GBG tick.

Half the town (honest, it’s a town) are in the bar at Y Talbot, a smart but casual refuge for the town from the local elections in the town hall, playing the Beatles “Help” as we enter.

And at least three of them, all older than Mrs RM, are speaking Welsh. About what, I do not know.

Perhaps they’re speculating on my NBSS scoring of the creamy Mantle Crw Teifi, the lovely local beer. It’s a 3.5, ladies.

A lovely collision of shopping bags, Hi-Vis and tourists, with a contract worker from Croydon talking football with the Scouser at the bar.

And if you’re looking for information on Tregaron, the colourful board in the lounge tells you all you need about the Elephant Project.

This blog is SO educational.


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