
Yes, I’d managed to arrive in Edinburgh just before the nerds turned up (not the CAMRAs). Almost as good as arriving in Somerset after Glastonbury.
The replies to my request for good Deuchars were discouraging, “Don’t Ever Drink Deuchars” the gist of it.

So I just walked aimlessly round the closes off the Royal Mile for a bit, hoping for inspiration and avoiding the Spanish tourists on Ghost Walks.

I was impressed with Edinburgh CAMRA’s campaigning for Mild Month.

Finally on Cowgate, the basic Lothian boozer of my dreams.

I’m still trying to work BrewDog out. Their core beers haven’t impressed in their own bars, though Punk IPA in Spoons is as good as ever. Turnover matters, even in Craft.
You’ll be wanting to see the prices.

I went strong and hazy.

Hazy Jane is the murk us Bass aficionados can drink between meals. Cool, complex, £8.75 a pint. Job done.

Feeling a bit Hazy myself, I followed Matthew Lawrenson advice and popped to the Cloisters.

No Deuchars, walk out.
Time to follow the Rebus trail.

Punk IPA £3.60 a pint in Lerwick
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Deuchars is normally very good in the pub just along from Haymarket railway station – the pub before you get to Nicholsons.
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Ryrie’s Bar is its name. Nicholsons is The Haymarket.
Ryrie’s Bar, 1 Haymarket Terrace, Edinburgh EH12 5EY
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Yes, was in Ryrie’s last year and can vouch that the Deuchars was good. The pub has a plaque in honour of the Bay City Rollers.
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Wow. Remember that. Underrated band. And pub.
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I’ve had nice food in Ryrie’s in the past too.
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Thanks for advice. Ryrie’s Bar is a great little pub, popped in few years ago for Deuchars.
In the end I went to Oxford Bar. Report to follow.
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Wondered if you’d make it to the Ox. Look forward to your report.
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I remember the barman, in the Three Judges in Partick, and his giving me a tutorial on Deuchars about a decade ago.
“The cellarman shouldnae have tae do the brewer’s job for him” was his terse summary.
It’s a pity. I loved it in its prime.
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Well that’s garbage, of course.
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Might well have been, but I’m no authority, so I took him at his word.
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I think it depends on what the bar man was referring to. If he was insinuating that the cellar-man was having to coax some condition into the beer, and that condition wasn’t there at the start, then he could have been right, but on the other hand we are talking about cask-conditioned beer, and the clue is that the stuff “conditions” in the cask, so therefore the chap behind the bar was wrong.
My conclusion is he was just being a grumpy old-git trying to impress.
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Well, to expand, he was talking – unsolicited – in the context of Deuchars’ meteoric rise to national brand, and their inability to keep pace with demand and to maintain quality. He suggested that their beer was being despatched before it was ready,
But as you say, Paul, cask conditioning is…cask conditioning.
Whatever, we are honoured, when a hostelryman devotes his time one-to-one with us, and so we conduct ourselves with due deference.
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Spot on with last point.
I guess I’d welcome the opinion of one of the Deuchars strongholds like the Oxford Bar on the quality of the beer they get. I thought it tasted as I remember a decade ago, though the same beer in the Waverley Spoons tasted a different beer and presumably was selling in decent volumes.
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Helpful, Etu. Confess I have no idea what despatched before ready means as I thought the preparation in the cellar was all down to the pub.
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Oxford Bar – Autovac
Booking Office – No autovac
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Autovac rules.
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Thee shouldnae need a cellarman if thee’s just got keg beer.
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Is there a blog where a bloke just visits Tennents pubs?
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Decent ‘Spoons on Lothian Road, Edinburgh. Can’t remember its name. Converted cinema so probably “The Old Picture Palace” or something like that. On three levels so I went to the bar level in the lift.
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Yes, I walked past the Caley Picture House to and from Bennets Bar.
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The Caley Picture House, 31 Lothian Rd, Edinburgh EH1 2DJ.
On my last visit, they had five excellent guest ales in addition to the trio of Doom.
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> Well that’s garbage….
RM describing the first half defending at the Etihad Stadium ?
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I’ll pay $7 for something special i.e. something I can’t get just at any average bar, but I’m astonished they can get away with that for lager. Or is craft lager that much better than the lager I’m used to?
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I doubt it’s that much better, and certainly no stronger, but obviously brewed in smaller sizes. What would a pint of Bud cost in a bar?
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I reckoned Cloisters to be one of the better Edinburgh bars, definitely not one to walk out of.
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Richard,
I had a decent enough drop of Stewart Pentland IPA in the Cloisters ten days ago but it’s far from my favourite Edinburgh bar and the subterranean lavatories reminded me of a Wetherspoons.
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It’s the beer I like, consistently good. The toilets are a bit incongruous, I agree.
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Will be coming back to Cloisters at the end of the trip. Fantastic beer.
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Comparing your comments with Paul’s, I think it’s all down to what you want of a pub? Cloisters has really good beer but is probably a bit quirky. Would you rather have that or sit in a very traditional, almost ornate pub (I’m thinking of that Eagle vaults in Worcester) drinking a pint of very ordinary Banks beers? At the end of the day it’s personal taste and each to their own, I know where I’d rather be.
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That’s a tremendous point, Richard. Really got me thinking about pubs and greatness.
I’d pick Cloisters over the Eagle Vaults (agree on beer), in part because I’d already seen it can be boisterous in the evening as well as calm at lunchtime. Definitely a younger persons pub compared to the Heritage pubs of the New Town. It was the keg % Belgian Ale from Fallen that pushed Cloisters into classic territory though, just as the bottled strong Windswept beer made the Queen Vic in Aberdeen special.
https://retiredmartin.com/2019/03/19/its-all-about-the-pub/
Of course, any pub I share the company of Paul or yourself is a magical pub, and I mean that even if you don’t believe me. Being in the company of people happy to talk to anyone is a joy.
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I wholeheartedly share your enthusiasm of being in the company of good people; yourself and Paul are definitely in the category of ‘the very best of good people’.
Having read Paul’s comments I think the Pub Pyramid paradigm of, Place, People, Beer and Time is all you need to evaluate your ideal, or your top 10 or whatever of pubs. The paradigm is almost a lens, or indeed a prism (triangle shaped) through which we can look; different people look for different things, whatever pleases them. And as Paul says, what we look for can change with time. You could do a top ten of the 70’s, 80’s, 90’s etc and for each era probably come up with a different set of pubs.
We are all different and like different things and we should respect that in others.
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Yes, a tremendous post there from Richard.
All I will add is that twenty years ago I couldn’t have imagined how my choice of pub would change as I got old.
I had 45 years from 1971 seeking out different beers, interesting beers and even some exciting beers but about three years ago I developed an intolerance to strong citrusy flavours and all that finished.
For the past fifteen years I have increasingly gone for pubs with heritage interiors and that’s no surprise as old age means looking back rather than looking forward.
Those pubs with proper beers we know and love and heritage interiors, like the Beacon and the Star, are of course my favourites – and I hope they’re still about at the middle of the century for today’s “craft” drinking hipsters.
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I don’t quite understand the Pub Pyramid paradigm but I’ve just had a great four days away with Manchester and Derbyshire the ideal Place, plenty of nice People about, not a bad Beer out of thirty pints and Time well spent from 11am to 9pm.
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I remedied that omission on the return journey 👍
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