Warning: contains people enjoying a fag in a pub
After Lemmy’s, we really should have sorted out some food. You never know when German takeaways are going to close.
But Tibia Tick was virtually next door, and looked too good to miss.
Outside, the tables were full of cheery smokers. Inside was a lone tiny and atmospheric (dark) room, playing some Riot Grrl tune. I thought they were Sleater Kinney outtakes, but turned out to be a local Lubeck punk band.
While we surveyed a beer selection that seemed to run to Veltins, the jolly cardiganed owner came back from chatting to the smokers and converted my expert German words into two* beers and a bag of Snyders pretzels, which are almost as good as Pipers.
As we took a seat, he asked if we wanted an ashtray. I know there’s state-by-state exceptions to the Smoking Ban, but it still comes as a shock to see folk smoking indoors.
A young couple joined us and lit up, and Mrs RM didn’t flinch. She just asked for a bottle of Luck we’d spotted on the other table, which was rather more exciting than the Veltins.
Another cheap round, another wonderfully characterful pub, and even better to come as we finally settled on a kebab from Paschas Treff. How could you resist the lure of Kö 39 next door.
You couldn’t. Unless you can’t cope with a little bit of smoke, of course.
This was a riot of colour and noise, a sort of German cousin to Tenbury’s Vaults.
No German craft here, just a classic Jever, and a soundtrack of “Maggie May“, “My Sweet Lord” and “Weather with You“. That’s as good as a Friday night gets, particularly when you don’t get kicked out in the cold for a fag.
Egged on by Mrs RM, I pointed at the bottle of Dragons Blood on the top shelf (don’t look too close at the advert below it), some sort of inexplicable spirit that cost about £1.30, but the purchase of which seemed to cause much rejoicing. I suspect it had been there a while.
Again, we didn’t notice the smoking. We did notice the exuberance of the smokers.
Paschas Treff did us a feast of what looked like souvlaki and aubergine with rice and freshly baked bread for a tenner. Germany does kebabs better than we do, too.
*I have real problems saying “Zwei”