I gave Mrs RM a couple of enticing choices for the day – Camden Town or Mansfield and she looked at me like I was daft. I obviously chose my wife well.
She probably had equally fond memories of our memorable weekend there 20-odd years ago. It must have been our anniversary as I distinctly remember paying £15 (fifteen !) for a room in one of the market square pubs. To put that outrage in context, I still pick up a Travelodge for £19 now. At least that pub had chicory coffee and some magnificent Old Bailey.
The Mansfield pubs and beers were among our favourites then, but once the brewery closed the town itself lacked appeal compared to those west of the M1 (Chesterfield and the Amber Valley particularly). The area still had a lot to offer children though, and our boys enjoyed Wheelgate Park and the hands-on museums. Not much for adults, though, once they’d shamelessly made Field Mill all-seated and denied away fans the pleasure of standing in the coldest ground I’ve ever been to (colder than Oldham).
Recent trips had seen a Beer Guide scene built around three central Wetherspoons, a Hungry Horse with guest beers, and just one great pub – the cosy Railway Inn.
Mansfield looked far better than we remembered. The railway viaduct isn’t in Stockport’s league, but does add some character to a reasonably interesting network of streets around the central square, with it’s enticing hot peas competing poorly with Wetherspoons breakfast offer. The Spoons dominated the centre, and some very cheap prices were drawing in the crowds. The Steak Club here looked a good £3 cheaper than my nearest one. I won’t claim the shops were equally busy, but I didn’t see as many boarded up shops as I see elsewhere.
As I’ve seen in Thanet and the Fens, struggling shops in decent-sized towns are fertile ground for micro-pubs. The most striking I’ve see so far is the White Lion (top), part of a small development built into the caves, which I’d never noticed before. We loved this place. Cosy seating, musty smells, chatty young owners, Welbeck and Moonshine (both NBSS 3.5), Bee Gees as the soundtrack. Probably gets as cold as Field Mill in January if you’re down there late evening though.
Micro No.2 is a few steps away, and much closer to the norm, but lacked nothing in quirk. The Beer Shack has Spinners LPs, robust conversation about lifestyle choices, and the beer of the day from Dowbridge (NBSS 4).
Just outside the centre the Brown Cow was the most attractive pub of the day, and a great advert for Everards’s Project William. Smarter than anywhere in Cambridge, with a good Mucky Duck (NBSS 3.5) from Raw, who operate the pub. Superb coffee as well.
The final new Beer Guide entry was the most unusual, but Il Rosso was the pub that forces me to make an apology to Mansfield & Ashfield CAMRA now. This is a very modern, smartish Italian restaurant near Sainsbury that also served a superb Harvest Pale (NBSS 3.5) alongside it’s upmarket tapas and coffee menu, bringing real ale to new audiences.
I wrote here and here about my astonishment that Mansfield had eight Beer Guide entries, but the beer in these four newbies was all superb, and a repeat visit is a must. I’ll still be comparing you with Chesterfield though.
retiredmartin 
What does NBSS mean?
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National Beer Scoring System – posting on CAMRA What Pub.
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I remember Mansfield Ales, Martin. I seem to recall the brewery was owned by a trust which was designed to ensure its continuance in order to provide the good citizens of Mansfield with beer.
Something went awry though, and the trust sold the brewery (can’t remember who bought it), despite it being modern, efficient and highly profitable. Again I’m not sure why, although I expect making a quick buck was the prime reason!
A nice write up about a town which I know virtually nothing. Has it got a railway station now? I seem to recall it was the only sizeable town in Britain without one; Dr Beeching having done his worst back in the 60’s.
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I vaguely recall that too Paul, though officially all production switched to Wolverhampton in the early 2000s.
Mansfield got it’s own station again about 10 years ago, seems extraordinary that Beeching closed it. I reckon Newcastle-under-Lyme is now biggest town without a station.
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Mansfield Brewery was taken over by Wolverhampton and Dudley Brewery, now Marstons
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Still an amazing amount of Marstons livery about, very attractive too
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So enjoyed reading this. Been a long time coming but Mansfield really is a serious beer destination. Please also check out the Mason’s Arms and Cart & Horse in Sutton In Ashfield. Btw it doesn’t get cold in subterranean caves, constant 12 degrees if memory serves. Cheese is matured in Wookey Hole as it is cool not cold.
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Ta Nick – my fault for being behind the times on Mansfield. Hadn’t picked up an Ale & Apple for a couple of years. Sutton surely deserves it’s own attention ?!
Mason’s is great but never heard of Cart & Horse. My stupidity on the caves – it was cold enough at lunchtime. Was only in Wookey Hole last month & wrote about it btw.
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Cart & Horse not on a par with Mason’s but making a genuine effort. Mansfield & Ashfield branch gave it an award for best mild during the Mild in May trail. Had a Timothy Taylor meet the brewer event to present it as it was TT mild they were serving.
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Will drop you a line when i come back to visit the Cowden Pound pub Paul. Agree on Bedford.
Those plastic toys are in Hanover Rd just southwest of Fuggles. New to us as well. Worth a look.
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Martin, sorry if this sounds a stupid question, but what exactly are these hot peas that they sell on the streets of Mansfield? I am a big fan of the black peas served up in the Black Country and in Stalybridge, I wonder if these are a similar delicacy.
Reading this, I am becoming more tempted to revisit Mansfield for a pre-season friendly at Field Mill in a couple of weeks should work allow. You won’t find me willingly complying with the all seated regulations however.
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Excellent question.
http://www.ourmansfieldandarea.org.uk/page/hot_pea_and_shellfish_stall_on_mansfield_market?path=0p2p19p
Mushy peas I assume, unlike the black peas on Bury market.
I was genuinely surprised by Mansfield, from a tourist as well as pub persepective. The memory of Mark Sale scoring V Cambridge on a night when it dipped below -10 C on that open terrace will not leave me though.
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