A fairly uncomfortable and expensive coach trip from Fort William to Inverness has undeniably magical scenery.

I was expecting less magic from Inverness in terms of its 6 Good Beer Guide pubs, but they surprised me with some decent halves of local beer in very pubby surroundings.


In a very small Old Town area near the river, the Blackfriars is bench seat heaven, complete with traditional landlords and an enterprising beer and cider list. Across the road, the Phoenix was probably between GBG entries due to a refurb which left it looking spectacularly attractive if you like your island bars.

Most noticeable was the quality, particularly in the Castle (Trade Winds), which was good or better in all pubs, with one returned pint in the Spoons.

The walk from the castle along the riverside was gorgeous.



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