June 2026. Armenia. Back in bed from the Southern Armenia 16 hour slog, a 6am alarm on Saturday morning for another early start tour was as welcome as a Maidenhead micro closure. But this northern exploration, centred on the lakes and forests, was an essential part of understanding a country that had seemed a little… Continue reading DON’T DILLY-DALLY IN DILIJAN
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IN SEARCH OF NOAH, IN SIGHT OF IRAN
June 2026. Armenia. I’ll be honest, by the 5th day of our Armenia trip last week I was knackered. Or specifically, my legs were. Sunday afternoon – 4 hours drive down to Waterbeach then Luton Airport. Monday – 5 hours in window seat on Wizz plane to Yerevan Tuesday – 3+ hours on packed train… Continue reading IN SEARCH OF NOAH, IN SIGHT OF IRAN
THE FOUNTAINS OF YEREVAN
June 2026. Yerevan. A second night in Gyumri, exploring a Soviet amusement park, but deciding against the wheel, before heading back to the wonderful station on Thursday morning. I don’t think it actually sells tickets or anything, but it looks the part. Three hours later we’re back in Yerevan, bags dumped back in the “Boutique”… Continue reading THE FOUNTAINS OF YEREVAN
COBS, ROLLS, SANDWICHES, Սենդվիչ . CULINARY ARMENIA
June 2026. Armenia. Churches, beer, statues, mountains, lakes. But what about Armenian food ? Well, there’s no obvious Chinese takeaway scene, but loads of pastries, and particularly good salads, notably at the smart Yaghli family diner on Rijkov Street, Gyumri’s main pedestrianised dining street (500 dram to the £). I love those menus with pictures;… Continue reading COBS, ROLLS, SANDWICHES, Սենդվիչ . CULINARY ARMENIA
CAN ONE HAVE TOO MUCH OF ARMENIAN CHURCHES ?
June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Pubs, art, weird food, churches….what else is there ? Armenia certainly has the churches, and a fair few folk (FFF) have questioned whether what there is to do if you don’t like touring monasteries. Gyumri’s classic is the rebuilt St. All Saviours, the orange and black exterior dominating the central square.… Continue reading CAN ONE HAVE TOO MUCH OF ARMENIAN CHURCHES ?
AN EPIC TREK TO THE UNOFFICIAL GYUMRI BREWERY TAP
June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Too hot to blog last night, a week ago in northern Armenia it was too hot to go trudging round back streets and scrubland in 33 degrees, but I always accept a challenge from my mate ChatGPT. “Given your track record, I wouldn’t be surprised if by Thursday you’re telling me… Continue reading AN EPIC TREK TO THE UNOFFICIAL GYUMRI BREWERY TAP
MRS RM CALLS FOR THE YANDEX
June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. As so often, the demographic chart for Gyumri tells you quite a lot. A five-fold increase in 60 years, followed by a halving of the population after natural disaster and the demise of the Soviet empire in short order. One full day and night in Armenia’s second city is probably enough… Continue reading MRS RM CALLS FOR THE YANDEX
A RAINY NIGHT NEAR GEORGIA
June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Well, over the border in Armenia, actually, but we need to recognise the genius of Tony Joe White at every opportunity. Mrs RM had really wanted to take that midnight train to Georgia from Yerevan, but on reflection turning up at the Hotel Alexandrapol at 1am carried some risk. Armenian towns… Continue reading A RAINY NIGHT NEAR GEORGIA
TOP 100 PUBS – PONCHIK-MONCHIK DOUGHNUT CAFE, GYUMRI
June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Stepping outside the Alexandrapol Palace at 8pm you see the length of the rebuilt main square up to St Saviours Church, but our thoughts are only on Untappd check-ins and healthy food, so it’s good that the Untappd options include an upmarket fish restaurant, kebab shop, and doughnut cafe. Ponchik-Monchik has… Continue reading TOP 100 PUBS – PONCHIK-MONCHIK DOUGHNUT CAFE, GYUMRI
WELCOME TO THE HOTEL ALEXANDRAPOL
June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Unexpectedly, the two carriage “commuter” train left Yerevan bang on time, and arrived in Gyumri bang on time, 3:05 hours later. With that sort of reliability Armenian Rail should take over Northern; it’d take a day to cross the Pennines but at least you’d know that in advance. A dull, featureless… Continue reading WELCOME TO THE HOTEL ALEXANDRAPOL
