A RAINY NIGHT NEAR GEORGIA

June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia.

Well, over the border in Armenia, actually, but we need to recognise the genius of Tony Joe White at every opportunity.

Mrs RM had really wanted to take that midnight train to Georgia from Yerevan, but on reflection turning up at the Hotel Alexandrapol at 1am carried some risk.

Armenian towns seem to come alive after dark, full of families eating ice cream, and the post -earthquake reconstruction plan has preserved some lovely historic streets.

some lovely doors,

and some weirdness.

If any of you do call 098-321-321 please let me know how you get on.

I thought the Soviet Union may have left a McDonald’s behind,

but apparently it’s a fake.

In fact, I never saw a Ronald McD. Armenia is delightfully free of fast food brands, or any takeaways, which means clean streets but less scraps for the wildlife.

A sudden downpour cooled the air but threatened to scupper our first of two nights exploring. Luckily we were able to take refuge in a basement beer bar.

What luck ! It’s almost as if I asked ChatGPT and it found me the Beer House, which has so far escaped the attention of Untappd.

Now, this may be your best bet to try all the Armenian beers, hardly a craft selection but generally well made and importantly cold.

Great snacks too.

I’ve mentioned service in the Balkans and the Caucasus being more effective than effusive. The barman and bloke at the bar were cheery and chatty here, though we understand not a word.

The rain abated, we dashed for the Alex,

pausing only to marvel at an illuminated All Saviours.

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