
June 2026. Armenia.

There’s no stopping Mrs RM. No sooner did Wizz Air start twice-weekly flights from Luton to Armenia than she’s booked bargain seats and got a full itinerary for the trip, 16 hour bus tours and all.
The theme for Yerevan will be ticking camels.

I haven’t seen a camel yet. Or a pint of Bass.
Our first venture into the Caucases after completing Europe*, and a punishing 4:40 hour flight on a plane with more seats but the same leg room. Luckily I have top company from US Ryan from Washington who’s getting the family together in Tbilisi, which is a bit like a family in Mansfield getting together in Mansfield Woodhouse, I guess.
I also, by dint of not paying the extra £20 to sit with Mrs RM, get the window seat, and somewhere over the Black Sea I see this mysterious blob deep into northern Turkey.

Any ideas ?
You’re greeted at Yerevan Airport, even before efficient passport control, by a cash machine, which is useful as while you can pay for your espresso on Monzo you can’t use it for “boutique” hotels, oddly.
We’ve just missed Mudlung and Ennui at the city’s Highland Metalfest,

but I know you’ll want to know what Ennui sounds like.
I’ll spare you all the history (ugh) on Yerevan, but it’s big (1.1 million souls), colourful,

and green.
There’s a “circular park” running round much of the eastern city, home to posh looking Flagman, the place our host at “Boutique” recommends as we check in at half-eleven.
Not only is it open beyond midnight, it’s showing Belgium v Egypt, clearly the glamour match of the World Cup.

No-one is watching, it feels more Hookah bar than pub. But they serve up a (genuinely) astonishing carbonara and Caprese salad at midnight,


and I will let you guess what the most expensive item on that bill (£26 inc. service) is.
My pint of Kilikia cost £1.80.

*except Belarus.