
May 2026. Leeds.

Just as we get back from Transylvania, Blackpool Jane rejoins the blogosphere with her own tales from the Balkans (here).
Mrs RM is in full flow on her own blog, earning commission from the sale of bags that will fit in Ryanair’s hand luggage sizer. Most of her posts are “Undiscovered Europe on a budget“, but she has a few domestic ideas now I’ve finished the Beer Guide.
“We should walk the Leeds to Liverpool canal” she announces, brooking no argument. “I hear it’s flat“.
Once she’d spent £15 on the maps,

and rather more on the boots (of which more later), it was just a question of finding a blog title.
“How about The Cask Camino ?”. Well, it’s a pilgrimage of sorts, and every section can end with a pint. Somewhere between 15 and 20 sections, we thought, depending on the distractions along the way (beer, curry, Lancashire v Yorkshire border disputes).
A month passed. It was too hot, the hotels were too expensive, the section was too short, or too long.
Finally, finally, we started last Friday. We even walked down to Sheffield Station to catch the (delayed) train to our starting point.

It’s very important to start at the start, I feel. ChatGPT confirmed that’s at Granary Wharf, out the back entrance of Leeds station at Platform 17.
Once you see Ossett’s Hop, you’re there.

Now, if you’re looking to start a major cross country walk I can’t think of many better places than Leeds to start,

and it seemed appropriate to nip in Ossett’s Granary Wharf SALT for a pint of White Rat and a wee*, but only one of those was ticked, as nothing seemed to open before noon. Stafford Paul would have found us an early opener.
Not much happening in the wharf, but plenty of shiny new signage to make sure you actually make it to the start of the canal, rather than falling in the River Aire and being carried out to Goole.

Our objective was no more than to look good in expensive walking gear and make it to Apperley Bridge by nightfall.

But first, we had to avoid the Peril of the Hisssing Swan.
*Yes, Mrs RM got a stern look for (inadvertently) using a closed pub’s facilities.
See my bsky comment re early opening, Brew Soc just along from the station, 4 cask, lots of keg, great paninis and crisps, opens at 7am…not sure when you can have beer though.
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I’m sure Martin would have given Brew Society a try if he’d seen my review on Pubs Galore: https://www.pubsgalore.co.uk/pubreviews/81002/ (it’s towards the bottom of the page, with some grumpy views from others above it – pay no attention to them.)
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I’m not sure about canals being flat. I remember a visit to the Delph Locks at Brierley Hill.
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Well, each bit of them’s flat. It’s just that the bits can be at different levels.
Messrs Brindley and Telford would explain, as would the 3rd Duke Of Bridgewater, and how about that for Nominative Determinism?
Personally, I keep away from them these days. (They often seem to run very close to sewage works.)
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Have you seen the front cover of that route guide? If the canal’s flat, then Bingley Five Rise must have been built as a sort of roller coaster. Wheeee!
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The water’s flat, though, and Mrs RM walks on water.
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“Stafford Paul would have found us an early opener” but that’s not as easy as it was.
During these challenging times increasing the price of a pint might be avoided by cutting costs and that might be wages earlier in the day.
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