retiredmartin

May 2026. Târgu Mureș. Central Romania.

An early night in Medias,

before a 6am start on Wednesday morning . Only (great) coffee and ice cream on sale at the kiosk at the Autogare before the early bus to Târgu Mureș, where we arrive with early check-in at Pensiunea Select Central (£40) for reasons I can’t be bothered to explain.

I know you’ll be dying to know about the Târgu Mureș (pop. 116,033) craft scene, and the complex relationship with Hungary, but the big news is the presence of two (2) Chinese takeaways, the first spotted on our trip. No spoilers.

Bags dropped we have the first of several long blacks at hipster Hug’n’Sip and then squidgy Eggs Benedict at studenty 112. If you took our two lads out of Stockport and Sheffield and dumped them in any Romanian cafe they’d struggle to tell the difference.

Târgu is the 16th biggest city in Romania, a town of chemicals and pharmaceuticals, like Middlesbrough with culture. I thought I recognised the name from recent European football tournaments but it appears Targu’s football history is one of overreach and bankruptcy, like Rushden & Diamonds.

Mrs RM has produced one of her trademarked tourist maps using cats (why ?) to mark the many highlights.

We start at the Annunciation Cathedral,

at the start of a run of great architecture leading to the fortress. If I’m honest, you can be overwhelmed by churches and fortresses in Transylvania,

but luckily there’s a tower to climb.

But first we need to pay the 85p and find the “man with the key”. Before he opens the door, he says he has something to do, which turns out to be kissing his wife.

That seems odd, as it’s us who’s climbing those 200 steps,

which is worth the effort just for the coloured rooftops.

Virtually every Romanian town has a tower like this one.

What’s the best one in the UK ?