February 2026. Pavia.
For those bored of foreign muck, here’s a Bass mirror from Turin last night.
Quite a bit of travel to go before we get there, though.
A week in Italy was enough to confirm the greatness of Genoa, tick a new country, finally see what Turin is all about (food) and revisit a small city that charmed me a decade ago.
€11 euros brings you through the Val Polcevara valley to Pavia, an ancient university town of 70,000 (and falling) to rival Durham, that gets few visitors and seems quite pleased about it.
A dreich day, not the best conditions to explore the cobbled streets, but you’ll get the picture.
Mrs RM had produced one her trademarked “city maps with key points marked with random objects“, bears 🐻 in this case,
but plans stalled at the first hurdle as the cathedral has micropub hours, so we get to have a long lunch at Miscusi in the Piazza Duomo.
I’ve got into quite an argument about this place on Instagram, noting the efficiency of a system that allows you to peruse a menu, order and pay from your seat (hey ! Like a Spoons),
and how this puts the focus on the quality of the food (fresh pasta made in full view) rather than on “service”. “But I LIKE being brought the menu and having my glass topped up by an underpaid waitress relying on tips” screams the angry American.
2 meals, glass of wine, bottle of water, 2 coffees for £30 before tip.
Anyway, I’m not popular in America it seems, which is a shame.
retiredmartin 
If it’s like Durham, the obvious question has to be…..Is the Sam Smith’s open?
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I just looked and was amazed to see that both Colpitts and the Swan and Three Cygnets are open. What’s different about Durham.
Do any other countries have bars like Sam Smiths. Perhaps southern Germany, Forcheim ?
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I’m probably misunderstanding your question but; over here we do have ‘chain’ restaurants that have a lounge area apart from the dining area.
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It’s a difficult question to frame, Russ, but I’m thinking of unmodernised pubs where you go to drink and chat rather than eat as a family and play on your phone. This one from Erlangen perhaps.
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Yeah, I kinda thought you meant that. 😏
The Sam Smiths are the ones who don’t allow phones or photos or some such?
Nothing like that over here; but who knows what lurks in smaller towns/villages?
To be honest, that was kind of the definition of a ‘local’ way back in the days, yes? Everyone knew everyone else, and was there more to chat rather than the lure of a particular pint. 😉
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I’ve only been to Italy once and it was Genoa, lovely place. Kirsty
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Glad you liked Genoa, Kirsty, some find it too bustling ! Touch of Liverpool about it.
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I perused a menu, ordered, and paid from my seat the other night too, Martin.
After we’d read the menu, a charming, witty lady came over and asked us what we’d like. Then she brought the food to the table. When we’d finished, she brought over a little machine, which I tapped with my card, and it was job done. Simple, what?
Long may such things continue.
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I’ve no problem with charming, witty, people. But you could have told the kitchen what you want, and paid, elctronically and saved that lady a pointless job and she could have been better deployed in a care home, car repair shop or recording studio, which would benefit us all. And the chef could bring his plate of food out so we could praise and tip him.
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What if she was happy – as she appeared to be – in her job, and wouldn’t want to work in a care home etc., and what if customers don’t want to do stuff “electronically” but personally, as I do? And why should a busy chef do someone else’s job too?
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She doesn’t have to work in a care home, but I’d much rather eat in a restaurant without “servers” that’s cheaper and allows me to both support a restaurant that saves a servers salary and remains viable, and sees resources redistributed to other professions we need people in.
I’m sure there will always be restaurants catering for folk who like old fashioned ways, though the Little Chef chain has closed.#
(sorry that wasn’t meant to read as vitriolic as it probably does !).
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The only time I like to have my wine topped up is if the bottle is in an ice bucket and I want to avoid drips of water everywhere. Otherwise I prefer to top up my glass myself.
Do Sam Smiths have more closed pubs than open ones or is that just the impression they give.
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I think that is probably the case as of now. The ones locally in Sheffield (particularly the villages) are open and closed regularly. London may be the most reliable place to find them.
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Remember, Americans defend their healthcare system to the death as well.
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I should hope so, Dave. It’s the most profitable health care systems in the world.
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ISWYDT 😉
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Most profitable foreign policy in the world too.
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“Most profitable foreign policy in the world too.”
(slow golf clap) 😎
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Italy, Schmitaly, you’re spending a week amid the Renaissance glories of Wrexham. And staying in That Ruabon, I’ll be bound.
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“Quite a bit of travel to go before we get there, though.”
(slow golf clap)
“finally see what Turin is all about (food)”
I thought the reason was shrouded in mystery. 😎
“to Pavia, an ancient university town of 70,000 (and falling) to rival Durham, that gets few visitors and seems quite pleased about it.”
There’s a few places around the world that are having similar thoughts of limiting the influx of tourists.
“A dreich day, not the best conditions to explore the cobbled streets, but you’ll get the picture.”
(looks down)
Blimey. That looks like they kept adding another bit on top every century.
“Mrs RM had produced one her trademarked “city maps with key points marked with random objects“, bears 🐻 in this case,”
I guess that’s ‘bearable’.
“so we get to have a long lunch at Miscusi in the Piazza Duomo.”
The horror.
“I’ve got into quite an argument about this place on Instagram, noting the efficiency of a system that allows you to peruse a menu, order and pay from your seat”
I’m all for that. I hate having to get the waiter/waitress… serving person’s attention when I’m ready to pay up and leave. A bit like self checkout at various stores.
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Argh. At least it wasn’t a wrong post this time!
Anyway…
“2 meals, glass of wine, bottle of water, 2 coffees for £30 before tip.”
(looks up)
And you can stay as long as you like!
Also, is tipping a thing in Italy? Unlike, the UK, France and Belgium, off the top of my head.
And now I’m done!
Cheers
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Tipping is a minefield worldwide. I’d just been in a craft bar in Turin and shared a burger with fries and two great beers. Bill 21 euros, gave him a few extra euros to get rid of change. Chap almost shouts “Oh ! You’ve overpaid !”. So no, they don’t seem to expect it, but certainly grateful for an extra 10% or so. Like I wrote a couple of years ago, travel in Italy is a real joy.
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I would love tipping to be totally phased out. Just pay your staff adequately!
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Agreed Lana, and, agree with Martin that, if it’s not expected, it’s a pleasant surprise.
I do that will all the folks who come to my home to do stuff.
And I try to be on the lookout for my garbage pickup folk in December.
(not the postal people anymore as we no longer get home delivery of mail)😏
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Yes ! The fuss about paying at the end, too ! So much palaver, but apparently some people like it because it keeps waitresses who wouldn’t do a valuable job employed in a pointless one (see also : supermarket checkouts).
And there’ll be plenty of shroud puns later.
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“And there’ll be plenty of shroud puns later.”
I have no doubt!
(as long as they’re not veiled) 😉
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