retiredmartin

October 2023. Belgrade, Serbia.

Mrs RM is one of those irritating “tickers“, you know the ones, the sort who see a list and want to “complete” the set. Who’d do that ?

She’s determined we’ll complete all the countries of Europe next year, and then all the countries of the world except Russia, Belarus and probably that dangerous place the RAC won’t give you travel insurance for. No, not Maidenhead.

We set off for two more ticks in the Balkans this week, flying to Belgrade from Luton for £20.

Yes, more of those holiday snaps for the next few days, but at least it’ll be (mostly) craft beer free and if it gets really dull you can compare Mrs RM’s packing with the luggage that Kentish Paul has taken on holiday.

As you’ll know this blog is a paragon of honesty, if not always historical accuracy, and I’ll admit that Mrs RM’s stringent packing regime (hand luggage only), requiring me to leave Baa Baa and Alfie at my parents, has wracked with guilt this week.

But they’re happy staying with their mates, and I have a recurring nightmare about them being slit open by Serbian drugs enforcement officers, so probably for the best.

We warmed up for Belgrade with a night in our campervan at Luton Airport’s Mid-Stay Car Park before our early flight, which at least had the option of Marks & Spencer wine in a can from the Departures Lounge.

The UK Foreign & Commonwealth Office has no specific advice against staying in Luton overnight, or visiting Serbia, whose fearsome reputation is largely based on “La battalla de Belgrado“, a 1977 World Cup Qualifier.

Manchester City had actually just beaten Red Star Belgrade in the Champions League, and I’ve been able to give fellow Blues some travel tips ahead of the away fixture on 13 December.

Many away fans have grim tales of police escorts to the Red Star stadium, but we reckoned Belgrade was friendly, efficient and accessible, if not exactly the medieval city of your dreams.

They obviously don’t get a lot of tourists, as there was no information on how to get the 8 miles from airport to centre, but were just waved on to the crowded number 72 bus without payment. Matthew reminds me the great Ron Pattinson did the same last month, and if it’s good enough for Ron…

Central Belgrade looks a bit scruffy, but at least their bears get good views.

And although it lacks any sort of “grand place”, it’s a floral delight in places.

“I thought this was a pub blog !” says reader Dave, and the most noticeable sight was a crop of very craft bars near Republic Square.

You can’t go anywhere in the world to escape a Mango NEIPA these days.

£2.80 your 6.2% craft. I made a note to go to the Gunners later, but never did, it might have been an Arsenal pub.

Instead, after dropping bags (early, well done Beograd Garni) at the hotel,

we took a walk along cobbled Skadarlija, the ancient dining street,

and picked Zavičaj Skadarlija, the only place with locals in it.

1970s furnishings, lager in chunky glasses,

meatballs, chips and fluffy bread.

Most importantly of all, NO indication of the calorie count. Take note, Wetherspoons.

But we knew immediately we’d have to walk it off that afternoon.