Mrs RM had bought a book on Amazon called “Dawdles in the Dales” or similar, but we’d left it at home so we couldn’t actually do any walking.

But we COULD get pictures for Mrs RM’s Instagram page to impress friends in the Fens, and that was more important.

Using Search for Sites, we found a car park that would let us stay in the campervan overnight. It’s actually called The Aysgarth Falls Car Park, so clearly legit.

We were the only vehicle parked overnight, with this as our view,

but it seems the Cafe once attracted a 2/10 rating on Pubs Galore.

We were close enough to Redmire to squeeze in a BRAPA-esque 4th pub of the night, the Bolton Arms in Redmire.

All I can tell you about Redmire is that they HATE visitors, will every house having a sign deterring you from parking in the vicinity.

The pub was friendly, but clearly with all tables reserved for dining the instruction “You can drink there but it’s reserved from 7″ wasn’t the most welcoming.

Yes, another Theakston. Cool, but uninspiring, 3 at best. Interestingly ALL the pubs in the Dales served a selection from Theakston, Black Sheep, Tim Taylor and Wensleydale. Barely a look in for the 72,344 micro breweries allegedly operating round here.

We tried to eavesdrop on a conversation between a couple from Skeggy, but obviously it was incomprehensible.

In the morning Mrs RM pressed herself against the corner of the van with the best WiFi so she could do a morning’s work, and I collected some Instagrammable shots.

It’s actually really tough to take photos of the Falls, and they’re a bit depleted at the moment.

So I’ll leave you with the famed purposeless stile on the walk to Carperby (it would have foxed BRAPA after 5 pints),

and the gorgeous Victorian rock garden in Aysgarth itself.

I was about to nip in the ivy-coloured Falls hotel when Mrs RM phoned to seek an early lunch. I didn’t tell her I’d just had a huge artisanal bacon bun at the National Trust Cafe. And I feel guilty about that. Honest.


  1. Lack of “craft beer” aside, the selection of good cask in the Dales (and much of Yorkshire) is solid. Any pub with both Black Sheep and Tim Taylor on tap in the south would be a destination pub:)

    Liked by 2 people

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