Llandeilo. Closest town with a GBG pub to Bethlehem, from where I sent a postcard home on my 33rd birthday after a pint of Bass in Pontfaen.

Pilgramage town

Llandeilo had been near the top of my Bucket of Bass list for years. On the edge of the Black Mountains, with its own railway station and three (3) Guide pubs for 1,795 souls, how had it taken me so long ? Apart from being seven hours away on the train, of course.

There’s still a thrill in entering a UK town for the first time, and I’m struck by how gorgeous it is.

Farmyard views
Pale colours
Overgrown churchyards

You see. I have simple tastes.

The pubs look thrilling, too. And the three (GBG) entries are open all day. Some of the non-GBG places look worth a punt too.

Nice font

So, what sort of town is Llandeilo ? More Llanidloes than Llanelli, that’s what.

Even the Town Hall looks like a branch of Evelyn & Crabtree, and the High Street is awash with pashminas and pastries accompanied by the sounds of Whitney’s “Didn’t We Almost Have It All“, her best moment in my book.

Gorgeous colour

Pub No.1 is, thrillingly, a courtyard pub set back from the High Street, which confuses the GBG App but not your hero.

It’s in there

Oh no. Not a Brewery Tap.

Warning. Warning.

But it’s OK. It’s Evan Evans. They know what they’re doing.


Modernised but multi-roomed, all it needed was locals.


But the White Horse is impressively ignoring the needs of diners and sticking to providing local beers for a few Old Boys, who all say hello and goodbye in between discussing virgin’s urine. I hope that’s what they said.

They seemed impressed I was drinking the local beer. Even if they weren’t.

Pub life

My extensive notes say “Afternoon”, “Virgin’s urine” and “Crwr NBSS 3”, which tell only half the story. And now I wonder; was that apostrophe in virgin before or after the “s” ?


  1. Llandeilo has “its own railway station” but it’s not as good as Landrindod’s on the same line.
    I’ve not done it since April 2017 but get the 9.14am from Crewe for Llanelli and it stops at Llandrindod from 11.39 to 11.58am which is ample time for a pint of Wye Valley Butty Bach in the Hampton Hotel. And that pint is all the appreciated as there’s only really a Greene King family dining pub and Tim’s venue in Llanelli, not that I’ve got anything against Greene King family dining pubs and Tim’s venues but that’s not what I go to Wales for.

    I recently read somewhere “It’s a funny thing, and it’s hard to say it without appearing a bit dismissive, but pub culture in Wales is definitely different from that in England” and I think in part it is that they don’t change things unnecessarily – such as that white on black Bass Charrington “White Horse” sign above the archway that would be a proper rarity in England. And I expect you could still find keg Skol or Harp in the nearby pubs.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Chateau Pie-Tin is a hive of activity this afternoon as we await the return of Herself from the Holy Land.
    I’ve got the cleaner in for an extra day,I’ve done the bottle bank and even the dog has been warned to be on his best behaviour.
    Ten wonderful days of going to bed at 4am,getting up at lunch-time and slobbing about in front of the telly watching cricket before heading to the pub.
    Truth is,however,I’m knackered and very clearly not 18 years of age any more.
    It’ll be good to see the oul’ doll again too.
    Hope she hasn’t forgotten how to make me a cup of tea.

    Liked by 1 person

      1. “Hope she hasn’t forgotten how to make me a cup of tea.”

        Is that before or after?*

        (i.e. make me a sandwich) 😉


        PS – In all honesty though; love it when my better half is away… but not for too long. 🙂

        Liked by 1 person

  3. I hate pubs with second hand domestic furniture. If you’re going to have sofas that’s fine by me, but please get some professional, quality ones, designed for the hospitality trade, commensurate with the rest of the decor and not a mis-match of second hand rubbish.

    Liked by 2 people

    1. – but ‘random furniture’ is intended to give a proper old pub the ambiance of a micropub and get a few hipsters through the door.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. But is scruffy furniture any worse than scruffy customers ?
        Does “second hand domestic furniture” really look any worse than a customer wearing tatty jeans ?
        But maybe proper pubs are the best places for a diverse range of customers to mix with a drinker looking as if he’s been dragged through a hedge backwards quite happily rubbing shoulders with another wearing a Charles Tyrwhitt shirt.


  4. I sat in exactly the same seat as you, the last time that I went to the White Horse, Martin. One of the locals brought a very large smelly dog with him. We moved to the vividly carpeted lounge, but the reek pervaded throughout.

    I much prefer the Angel if in Llandeilo anyway.


    1. I’ve seen people try that. There’s a often synergism which is worse than the sum of the parts, however.

      Also, one problem with the lounge, for its size, is that it has no regular serving facility.


  5. “from where I sent a postcard home on my 33rd birthday after a pint of Bass in Pontfaen.”

    To prove they had Bass in Wales?

    “Pilgramage town”

    Sigh. Long week. Took me a second to get that (blush).

    “Farmyard views”

    I take it they still believe in fairies with that wee little house on the wall of the building on the right.

    “Pale colours”

    For bright colours one would need to be used to sunshine. 🙂

    “Overgrown churchyards”

    Obviously the congregations aren’t donating enough.

    “Gorgeous colour”

    On the left side I misread “Cyngor Tref” for some reason as “Ginger Beef”.

    “all it needed was locals.”

    Sadly, all too true all over.

    “in between discussing virgin’s urine.”

    Maybe it was Virgil’s Ulysses?

    “Pub life”

    In a nutshell.

    “was that apostrophe in virgin before or after the “s” ?”

    Depends on how big the container was. 😉


    Liked by 1 person

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