I cannot tell a lie.  The highlight of our Nuremberg trip was the sensational “craft” ice-cream in the street below, which is one of my favourite in the world.

Weissergasse, Nuremberg – head for No.28

As is the city, which is firmly in my Top 5 (with Manc, Genoa, Ghent & Berlin).  Nuremberg’s neighbourhoods/suburbs can’t rival those in Berlin yet, but they do house the Landbierparadies pubs * which are pretty close to my model pub.

On a couple of previous visits in late October I visited their two southern pubs, and enjoyed the cosy interiors, rotating Landbiers, and a scary cheese platter (luckily with Mrs RM). They had a touch of Sam Smiths at their very best. This time I got to sample the beer gardens.

One of the joys of Nuremberg is its integrated transport structure.  12 minutes from Airport to our hotel (B&B, excellent), 8 minutes to Nordorf and the Landbier place on Leipziger Strasse.  Rather unremarkable and residential, except for this odd juxtaposition of church and youth centre;


The Lanbierparadies across the road is something of a contrast, all dark wooden corridors and devoid of unnecessary modernity, though it’s not as homely inside as the pubs at Wodanstrasse and or Sterzinger St. A few too many tables reserved for my liking as well.

Just as well that the beer garden (top) is so inviting, whether you’re eating or not. I stuck to the Landbier from the wooden barrel, which even with the plastic menu I couldn’t tell you any more about.


I can’t even tell you what I ate;  I just pointed at what the bloke on the long table next to me was eating. I shall call it “Bubble and Squeak, German style”, and like the beer it was lovely. A single member of staff was worked off her feet but dealt superbly with it all.

Luckily Erlanger Nick was on hand the next night in the Furth outpost to guide me in the beer department, but not before I’d had the famous Neder beer from the place in Forcheim that so entranced Boak and Bailey a few years back. I’m saving Forcheim for next time.

Neder in Furth Landbierparadies


Matt can vouch for the bratwurst and pancakes here.  Oddly he was the only child I saw early evenings. These are real neighbourhood eateries,

* If you can navigate your way round their website you’re doing better than me.


  1. I wonder if the one in Nord-Ost, in Leipzigerstraße, might be the only decent place to eat & drink in the neighbourhood, and so gets booked out because of that. Really don’t get the Sam Smith’s connection, but that just means I need to research SS pubs more.

    You do have to be a bit demanding with them about what exactly is in the one barrel that they happen to be pouring. “Landbier” is about as vague a description as you can get with German beer, except “Lager” or “Vollbier”, I guess. Or “Bier”. To them, it’s just not as important exactly what the beer is as it is to the likes of me, or even you. I think they tend to get barrels from the same breweries from which they get their bottles.

    Landbierparadies started out as a drinks shop, and they added a tavern. And then another. A couple have come and gone over the years, surprisingly, I’m not sure why either of them would have closed.

    The Hexenhäusla in Fürth started *brewing* a couple of years ago. They put in a 50L and a 200L kit, some brand-name turn-key or other, and so they offer a beer of their own, alternating more or less with one from the range of small countryside breweries. This one was simply called “Altdeutsches helles Lager”. And it was good, until we got on the other two.

    You really, really need to read Ron’s blog posts from 2007 or 2009 about the Forchheimer taverns. Sadly, Hebendanz’s tavern has since been gentrified, and so your reputation is no longer tarnished if you’re seen going in or out of it. Apparently ex-cons (murderers, even, such as they are in Forchheim, according to locals from a countryside Bierkeller I frequent) used to hang out there. Maybe Ron’s “Ghost” was one.


  2. Helpful as always Nick. As a rule, I drink what the locals are drinking, my loss. Unless I get exper guidance ;-). I think yo’re right about the Nord-Ost place having the neighbourhood to itself; nothing much else jumped out when I looked for pubs on Google maps. I mention Sams because that combination of simplicity and unmodernisation is a common thread (and good beer). Clearly that’s more evident in the interiors, espec. the southern ones, than in a beer garden. Folk from England might find echoes of Sams in quite a lot of Franconia to be fair. Will read Ron, though I regard anything pre-2015 as ancient history.


    1. ??? I only meant to respond to your not knowing what it was you were drinking. It’s listed on the blackboard there “Heute vom Holzfass: Wiethaler Dunkel”. So yes, stick to what the locals drink, especially when it’s something like that. (And indeed Br. Wiethaler is fairly local to northern Nürnberg.)


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