I cannot tell a lie. The highlight of our Nuremberg trip was the sensational “craft” ice-cream in the street below, which is one of my favourites in the world.
As is the city, which is firmly in my Top 5 (with Manc, Genoa, Ghent & Berlin). Nuremberg’s neighbourhoods/suburbs can’t rival those in Berlin yet, but they do house the Landbierparadies pubs * which are pretty close to my model pub.
On a couple of previous visits in late October I visited their two southern pubs, and enjoyed the cosy interiors, rotating Landbiers, and a scary cheese platter (luckily with Mrs RM). They had a touch of Sam Smiths at their very best. This time I got to sample the beer gardens.
One of the joys of Nuremberg is its integrated transport structure. 12 minutes from Airport to our hotel (B&B, excellent), 8 minutes to Nordorf and the Landbier place on Leipziger Strasse. Rather unremarkable and residential, except for this odd juxtaposition of church and youth centre;
The Lanbierparadies across the road is something of a contrast, all dark wooden corridors and devoid of unnecessary modernity, though it’s not as homely inside as the pubs at Wodanstrasse and or Sterzinger St. A few too many tables reserved for my liking as well.
Just as well that the beer garden is so inviting, whether you’re eating or not. I stuck to the Landbier from the wooden barrel, which even with the plastic menu I couldn’t tell you any more about, except it’s about as far from my original perception of German fizz as is possible. Weird but lovely head, too.
I can’t even tell you what I ate; I just pointed at what the bloke on the long table next to me was eating. I shall call it “Bubble and Squeak, German style”, and like the beer it was lovely. A single member of staff was worked off her feet but dealt superbly with it all.
Luckily Nick was on hand the next night in the Furth outpost to guide me in the beer department, but not before I’d had the famous Neder beer from the place in Forcheim that so entranced Boak and Bailey a few years back. I’m saving Forcheim for next time.
Nick quickly identified their own beer brewed on site (off-menu) but the winner on the night was the Wagner. Here’s a photo I nicked off Nick’s Tweets.:-
Pleasant company from Tabor and Nick, slightly sketchier service, and I’ve not had a beer I haven’t enjoyed in a Landbierparadies yet.
Matt can vouch for the bratwurst and pancakes here. Oddly he was the only child I saw early evenings (mind you they can drink beer from 14 over there). These are real neighbourhood eateries, but it’s the oldies (and a few youngsters like Nick) who fill these places out.
* If you can navigate your way round their website you’re doing better than me.