Ten miles into Day 2 on Hadrian’s Wall, and we finally reached something approximating life as we entered Northumberland at Gilsland. The accents were no less comprehensible (ours, not the Geordies). Gilsland (pop. c.400) had a posh spa hotel, a cafe and two pubs, one of which was daringly open at 3pm on a Wednesday.… Continue reading STRONGER THAN SAMSON