February 2026. Monaco.
One night in Monaco, as Murray Head nearly sang; one day is plenty, but not more than enough.
I really enjoyed the principality, but you can walk from shops to casinos to the Old Town in half an hour, though you’ll appreciate those evcr-present free elevators on the walk back.
We left Hôtel de Paris for the marina, which looks best from the viewpoint from Monaco Ville,
though before you get there you have to walk the length of the waterfront, from which the whole place all looks a little less shiny.
The modern town could be any small ville in southern France,
with some nice balconies,
and the market which is the refuge of the budget traveller.
The Maison des Pâtes Condamine has big plates of fresh cheesy pasta for a tenner, and an abundance of pigeons to help you finish it.
Fully carbed up, you’ll be ready to face the climb to the Prince’s Palace.
You can see the changing of the Prince’s guard here, but there’s very few tourists strolling the streets,
so we get the best photos.
The Old Town is home to the vast Oceanic museum, a gorgeous sculpture garden with Grace as its centrepiece,
and an unexpectedly cheery cafe with a view of the palace.
I’d read plenty of stuff about poor service in Monaco beforehand, it’s what put us off the homebrew place down by the marina, and a previous customer at La Pampa had noted a 5 euro tax for “the sun” two years ago,
but today the service was friendly and without surprise.
OK, 12 euros a “pint”, and the Monte Carlo beer (top) is actually brewed over the border (get on the provenance case, French CAMRA), but you get a couple of these lovely little tapas thrown in.
So that’s alright, then.
retiredmartin 