A PINT IN MONACO OLD TOWN

February 2026. Monaco.

One night in Monaco, as Murray Head nearly sang; one day is plenty, but not more than enough.

I really enjoyed the principality, but you can walk from shops to casinos to the Old Town in half an hour, though you’ll appreciate those evcr-present free elevators on the walk back.

We left Hôtel de Paris for the marina, which looks best from the viewpoint from Monaco Ville,

though before you get there you have to walk the length of the waterfront, from which the whole place all looks a little less shiny.

The modern town could be any small ville in southern France,

with some nice balconies,

and the market which is the refuge of the budget traveller.

The Maison des Pâtes Condamine has big plates of fresh cheesy pasta for a tenner, and an abundance of pigeons to help you finish it.

Fully carbed up, you’ll be ready to face the climb to the Prince’s Palace.

You can see the changing of the Prince’s guard here, but there’s very few tourists strolling the streets,

so we get the best photos.

The Old Town is home to the vast Oceanic museum, a gorgeous sculpture garden with Grace as its centrepiece,

and an unexpectedly cheery cafe with a view of the palace.

I’d read plenty of stuff about poor service in Monaco beforehand, it’s what put us off the homebrew place down by the marina, and a previous customer at La Pampa had noted a 5 euro tax for “the sun” two years ago,

but today the service was friendly and without surprise.

OK, 12 euros a “pint”, and the Monte Carlo beer (top) is actually brewed over the border (get on the provenance case, French CAMRA), but you get a couple of these lovely little tapas thrown in.

So that’s alright, then.

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Published by retiredmartin

Retired NHS, doing long walks around UK and the world to record the great bits. Focused on Good Beer Guide pubs and live music.

21 thoughts on “A PINT IN MONACO OLD TOWN”

  1. “.. we get the best photos.”

    You certainly do. This is why your readers generously subsidise you and Christine on your foreign jaunts.

    What will you do when you run out of places to visit?

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      1. The Pig & Whistle? It’s handy for the tram stop but I’m not going to pay nearly six quid for a beer I could drink at the Kelham Island Tavern for nearer to four pounds than five. I suppose I’ll have to go there to get a photo so I might as well splash out on a beer too.

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      8. I did four pubs in Cambridge Sunday and Monday, and the only one where I paid more than £5 was the Alexandra, just up Gwydir Street from the Cambridge Blue. Strangely, that was the pub with the least good beer. I enjoyed the Blue much more than I did two years ago.

        The Kingston and the Devonshire were below £5, but in the latter’s case it was because I got an incomplete half-pint from the end of the barrel and the barman let me have it as a third. You see, sometimes it is good to order halves.

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      10. Martin, No, but another Nicholsons, the Bacchus Bar. But fortunately one of us works for Mitchells and Butlers, ordered and got one third off everything so my £18 pie was a more reasonable £12.
        Will, but you’d have done better with an incomplete pint from the end of the barrel and the barman letting you have it as a third, or even as a half.

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      12. Yes, an unmissable interior indeed, but I couldn’t help but notice that the classical fittings and decor featured nudity which, in this day and age, might risk offending a few potential customers.

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  2. “One night in Monaco, as Murray Head nearly sang”

    (slow golf clap)

    “but you can walk from shops to casinos to the Old Town in half an hour, though you’ll appreciate those evcr-present free elevators on the walk back.”

    I can appreciate that.
    (also, is ‘evcr-present’ some new fangled slang?)

    “though before you get there you have to walk the length of the waterfront, from which the whole place all looks a little less shiny.”

    Everything looks better from up high, and far away.

    “The modern town could be any small ville in southern France,”

    This is my shocked face! 😎

    “with some nice balconies,”

    (looks down)
    It’s the wrought iron what done that.

    “and the market which is the refuge of the budget traveller.”

    I think you meet more people that way, rather than only interacting with the concierge.

    “The Maison des Pâtes Condamine has big plates of fresh cheesy pasta for a tenner, and an abundance of pigeons to help you finish it.

    And a nice view while you eat.

    “Fully carbed up, you’ll be ready to face the climb to the Prince’s Palace.”

    None of those helpful elevators?

    “but there’s very few tourists strolling the streets,”

    The climb puts them off.

    “so we get the best photos.”

    Heh. 👍

    “with Grace as its centrepiece,”

    Kinda nice that.

    “and an unexpectedly cheery cafe with a view of the palace.”

    (looks down)
    Cheaper than the casino, but not your hotel room.

    “and a previous customer at La Pampa had noted a 5 euro tax for “the sun” two years ago,”

    Blimey!

    “OK, 12 euros a “pint”, ”

    Yup, still a pricey place.

    “and the Monte Carlo beer (top) is actually brewed over the border (get on the provenance case, French CAMRA)”

    First, they need a French CAMRA, n’est-ce pas?

    “So that’s alright, then.”

    It’s the little things.

    Cheers

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