October 2023. Belgrade.
I wanted to send this post from Sarajevo airport but the plane loaded early and Mrs RM had a seat so far away from me we became “untethered”. Not a metaphor.
Back to those reviews of churches you’re waiting for.
We only spent one day in Belgrade, but it seemed a place of crumbling buildings, cosy pubs, cake and cats. Which is fine.
The one must-see is the rambling fortress overlooking the confluence Danube and the Sava, where we spent most of the afternoon walking off that sausage stew.
The statues are weird,
the collection of military hardware scary,
and in Ruzica they have one of the most atmospheric of little churches.
Ruzica used to be the garrison church, and after surviving a WWI bombardment those giant chandeliers were constructed from an array of bullets and shell casings.
Rumours that Mrs RM wanted me to walk underneath as it crashed to the floor are unfounded.
Oddities apart, the artwork is stunning,
though not stunning enough to tempt the hundreds of visitors away from the trio of cafe/taverna/bar behind the church.
I’ll score Ruzica an NCSS4.
retiredmartin 